Objectives
We are now back from our successful expedition. The following is left up for posterity!
Our objective is to cimb new lines on the tall steep flanks of the relatively unfrequented moutains at the head of the Tasermiut Fjord, on the Southern tip of Greenland. We hope to climb routes in big wall or alpine style and preferably free.
Some of the peaks at the head of the Tasermiut fjord have been climbed by previous expeditions, usually via the most straightforward route. All have reported the huge potential for high standard alpine rock/big wall routes on their unclimbed faces. The two most striking examples are the Minster and the Cathedral (circled in black and in yellow, respectively, on the map). These have both been climbed only once by the "Voie Normale". The unclimbed West faces will be our primary objectives. The 600 metre faces have been described by previous expeditions as "tremendous objectives for a strong team". The Minster is a particularly fine objective due to it's unclimbed south summit. Attaining the South summit via a high standard route on the west face will be a primary objective.
The Hermenjberg and Tinninertuup group lie in an adjactent non-glaciated valley. The impressive Northwest face of the Hermenjberg has been climbed once by a Norwegian team who report the outstanding potential for more quality lines. The Tinninertuup group is a set of five aguilles all of which have been climbed in the 1960s via straightforward ridge lines. All offer impressive faces, only one of which has been climbed.
James Vybiral will be filming the expedition. One cut will form a visual anthropology study, while others will be edited for submission to mountain film festivals.
The photo above left shows Hermelnbjerg. The wall of interest on Hermelnbjerg is shown on the map on the right within the red circle, the red dot marks the summit. The green circle indicates the location of one of a very few established routes on the Tininnertuup peaks. The route takes the striking prow, below.
