Our Routes

We based ourselves in the unnamed valley South of Sermitsiaq Valley. Within this valley there were so many good objectives to keep us busy that we saw no need to move. The rock, though poor in parts, was largely excellent and made for very good free climbing.

In total our expedition climbed nine routes: putting up seven new routes and repeating two. All the routes were climbed free on the Tininnertuup mountains (on peaks II, III or IV) or on the Hermelnbjerg.

The Routes

The routes we climbed are ordered below grouped by peak.

Jump to: Tininnertuup II, III & IV | Hermelnbjerg

Tininnertuup II

Tininnertuup II Routes
Tininnertuup II Routes:
Anglo-Bavarian Direct
Piriton Pillar
Scorpion Grooves
War Cry

Everybody put up a route on this peak, the rock was superb: just three very short (2m at most) bands of more orange, friable rock. A Slovienian team (Andrej and Tanja Grmovsek) also put up another line on this peak.

Descent: From the gently sloping summit walk North to the top of a narrow but well pronunced gully. Scramble down this, occassionally down climbing or abseiling the more arkward passages to where the gully widens out and splits. Take the left (looking down) gully. Follow this until the angle eases and it is possible to scramble right (looking out) over slabs to the moraine and back to camp.

From North to South, our routes are:

Anglo-Bavarian Direct (E2; 700m.)
FA: 31-07-2008 Ruben Gutzat and James Vybiral
No further info

Piriton Pillar (E5 6a; 700m.)
FA: 21-07-2008 Es Tresidder and Dan Mcmanus

Scorpion Grooves (E3 5c; 700m.)
FA: 24-07-2008 Tom Spreyer and Ged Desforges
More details in report

War Cry (E5 6a; 700m.)
FA: 24-07-2008 Ged Desforges, Tom Spreyer and Tony Stone

Tininnertuup III & IV

Tininnertuup III and IV Routes
Tininnertuup III & IV Routes:
Head in the Clouds
Anglo-Bavarian Direct
Rapakivi Road

Tininnertuup III

The view of Tininnertuup III (T3) from the valley is deceptive. It is slightly set back from its neighbours so it appears much smaller. It's not. T3 is only a little smaller than Tininnertuup II. That's about the only similarity those two peaks have. The rock on this T3 was generally very poor: exceptionally friable. Nethertheless, we put up two routes and our Slovenian friends completed another route we had backed off.

Descent for T3: Scramble and abseil down the North ridge to the col between Tininnertuup II & III. Make an abseil into the NNE gully and follow this with interest down to the moraine.

From North to South, our routes are:

Head In The Clouds (AD; 100m technical climbing: HVS; 900m; 650m ascent.)
FA: 20-07-2008 James Vybiral, Ruben Gutzat and Tony Stone
Follow slabs immediately to the right of the great black fault until forced into the fault below a large overhang. Follow the rising traverse line of the fault, initially loose and narrow, until further traversing becomes barred. Follow a large corner system for 55m to a ledge. Make another pitch in the same line, crossing a small overhang on the left and belay on its top. Traverse directly right for 20m to reach a large platform on the North Ridge, follow this to the top.

Anglo-Bavarian Direct (E1; 700m.)
FA: 25-07-2008 Ruben Gutzat and James Vybiral
A direct to the above. An independent start was added but thought to be of poor quality. The upper section is better than that on Head in the Clouds.

Tininnertuup IV

Tininnertuup IV is a striking peak, the largest of the Tininnertuup range. The prow was climbed by a Norwegian/Swedish team with some aid in 2002. A trip to the base of their route, Qivitoq, revealed a very unpleasant friable and damp start to what otherwise looks a tremendous route. A subsidiary spur to the left was climbed by another Norwegian team, also with some aid, and appeared to have a more pleasant start.

Rapakivi Road (5.11 with A2+; E3 5c (free); 1300m; 1000m ascent.)
FA: 2004 Martin Jacobsson and Ola Knutsson
FFA (by a variation): 22/23-07-2008 Ruben Gutzat and Tony Stone
Descent: Abseil down the route, in-situ gear from FA.


Ramblin' Man
Hermelnbjerg West Face:
Ramblin Man
The smaller looking pointed peak
to the right is the main summit.

The West Face of the Hermelnbjerg appeared omnipresent to us for the duration of our stay. There was only one existing route on the face, up the deep cleft on the left side of the face. The main summit of Hermelnbjerg sits some distance back from the West Face, connected by a ridge which descends before rising again to the main summit. The main peak had only been climbed once, back in 1971. An attempt was also made on a new route up the West Ridge of the main summit but the rock was found to be expentionally poor.

Ramblin' Man (E5 6b; 1200m; 1000m ascent.)
FA: 27/28-07-2008 Dan Mcmanus and Es Tresidder
Descent: Scramble down NE-ward to close to the col. Make four abseils to reach rock (avoid the rapidly retreating glacier!) and scramble down scree covered slabs to the valley.

North East Ridge of Hermelnbjerg (TD; difficulties to E1; 1.5km; 650m ascent from col.)
FA: 08-1971 Lindsay Griffin and partner
2nd Ascent: 10-08-2008 Ruben Gutzat and Tony Stone
Walk toward the far side of the col then follow the glacier (or scramble up rocks on its right bank) to an obvious breche on the NE ridge. Follow the ridge spectacularly, more-or-less on the crest, until an obvious series of ledges to the right (North) of the ridge can be followed to their meeting with a large gully/couloir (this is followed in descent). Climb the left side of the couloir to reach the crest about 50m below a gigantic gendarme. Make a rising traverse on the slabby wall on the left (South) side of the ridge to an obvious corner. Follow this to below an overhang, traverse left underneath the overhang to gain a steep crack, follow this and continue up and slightly right to huge jammed blocks. Continue in the same line to regain the crest. It is now possible to take a fairly direct line on the right (North) side of the crest toward the summit (much scope for variation). Climb the E face of the summit pillar (initially loose) in one pitch to belay on the far side at the highest point, having crawled underneath the huge summit boulder.
Descent: Abseil the line, or close to it, until the large gully/couloir. Abseil directly down this (careful to avoid rockfall) to reach the glacier.